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Writer Jack London Had Very Special Recipe For Cooking Rice

American writer and social activist Jack London was one of the first American authors to parlay his writing skills into a substantial personal fortune. He did this in part by going places and doing things that other writers were unwilling to risk, including repeated forays into remote Alaskan goldfields. He participated in and wrote about the Klondike gold rush, and his health suffered from the hardships he endured there. His inability to obtain shelter, food and medicine was reflected in his fiction, including a short story Create Fire. While in Alaska, he lost his top four front teeth to scurvy and poor diet.

Less well known than his ability to “rough it” in and write about in Alaska and other frontier outposts of the late 19th and early 20th centuries is his very particular taste in how his rice was prepared. Jack London, a staple of the goldfields because it can be bagged and kept fresh for months, knew rice well and had very special requirements when it came to cooking it.

San Francisco socialite Sarah M. Williamson, who helped popularize canning and food preservation in the early years of the 20th century, reported in a 1916 newspaper article that she obtained Jack London’s personal rice recipe from London’s long-term second wife, Charmian Kittredge London.

Here’s how Sarah Williamson talks about her discovery of Jack London’s rice recipe:

“Rice, cooked in a way that American housewives never cook and never learn to cook, appeared on Martin’s table at least once a day.” So says Jack London in a compelling novel that is almost autobiographical. And this is the way Jack London cooks his rice—I have the recipe in favor of Mrs. London over her husband’s signature,” Williamson wrote.

“Rice properly cooked – First the rice must be thoroughly washed, removing all the stickiness of the grains from cooking. The ratio of rice should be one to two parts of cold water. A proper Chinese cook will let it stand for several hours.” before placing on the stove. When the pot is finally placed on the stove, the fire must be hot and the rice must be cooked until all the water has been absorbed by the rice and no water remains on the surface. Then take it out where the stove is not so hot and let it boil slightly. Cooking a pot of rice should take anywhere from fifty minutes to an hour at a moderate rate. Just before serving, gently and carefully mix with a fork, which loosens the mass to a light and flaky appearance. it should be light, soft and separate.”

Williamson argued that rice was so difficult to cook because it had many different grains and subspecies. “The problem is not so much the cook as the rice itself,” she wrote. “There are about 49 kinds, and no two are cooked the same way. Some work best by parboiling, draining, and running again in cold water. Getting the same kind of rice every time would make for one reliable recipe. Because there is Chinese rice, Japanese rice, Indian, Georgian, South Carolina and now California rice and several dozen others, cooking rice will probably never be a solved problem.”

She also shared another of London’s favorite rice dish recipes, this one with onions and green peppers.

“Melt enough lard in a steel pan to fry one cup of rice until brown. The rice should be cleaned with a napkin and not washed. It is necessary to stir constantly to prevent the rice from burning. Remove the rice and set to In the lard put one or two large peppers were seeded and finely chopped, and the juice of one medium-sized onion (grated). A pinch of salt, pepper to taste. Two heaping teaspoons of chili, mixed with three cups of tomatoes, which are finely mashed. Put a mug of boiling water in a granite pot. Pour the sauce from the pan into the pot, then pour in the rice. Cook slowly until the rice is cooked. in the oven and bake. If this dish is well done, each grain is separate and dry.”

Jack London died in November 1916, just a few months after Williamson published his rice recipes, still a relatively young man of only 40 years of age. Despite his very specific requirements for cooking rice to suit his palate, there is no doubt that the hardships of the Arctic and the harsh conditions he endured in order to devote himself to writing contributed to the loss of health that led to his untimely death.

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