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Four Desserts From My Serbian Grandma
My grandmother is from Serbia, and she was part of the Yugoslav Federation when she came to the US. She didn’t become a US citizen until I was 12 years old. She speaks Rusin dialect with her children, including my American-born father, who has always had terrible English with a heavy accent. Grandma is an excellent pastry chef. Her desserts are numerous, some mostly recalled as Christmas pastries.
Nutty Pita Bread
Nut Pita is one of those recipes that is always associated with Christmas in my opinion. It’s not a very sweet dessert, but it’s rich. My grandmother’s Nut Pita is two layers of unsweetened pastry dough with chopped walnuts, eggs and a sugar filling. The filling can also be meat, cheese or fruit. Pita means pie in Serbian, and as far as I know, the pastry part of these pies is usually puff pastry or fillo dough. Pie can be explained as anything with a crust, usually on the bottom and sometimes also on top of the filling. Fillings can be sweet or savory. In the Grandmas Nut Pita, the filling is made with a dozen separated eggs. Whisk the whites alone, then fold in the egg yolks, sugar, and ground peanuts. Her pastries are made with yeast, though not puff pastry. It was rolled up to fit a 13 x 9 inch pan, the filling went in and another layer of pastry was placed on top. After baking, it is always cut into rhomboids, brushed with vanilla, and dusted with powdered sugar.
Kifli, Kiflicke, Kiefele
I’m not sure about the spelling of these little pastries. The pastry portion of these is rich and flaky, but not sweet doughy. Roll out into cubes or circles, place filling in the center, pull opposite sides or corners together and bake. The filling in the middle that I remember best is Prune Lekvar, a smooth boiled plum puree and apricot filling. Either of these fillings is easy to make. Simply take the pitted dried fruit with a little water and some lemon zest and simmer until all the water comes to a boil. Puree in a food processor and add sugar to taste. It’s a wonderful filling, and it’s even delicious spread on toast. The dough is light and crisp, and the filling is delicious.
Strudel
I haven’t had a pie like my grandmother’s since the last time I saw her a long time ago. I’ve ordered pies in restaurants, and since they’re usually German restaurants, the pastry part is thicker and more doughy. Grandma’s pies are made by stretching her dough to cover the entire kitchen table, with an overhang of at least 12 inches. It was pulled so thin that you could read the newspaper through the dough. She’ll sprinkle it with one of a variety of sweet fillings, such as poppy seeds, chopped walnuts, apples, cheese, or even cabbage. Always feel like the filling isn’t enough because it’s spread out thinly, but so is the dough so it’s always perfect. Not only is grandma’s pie perfect for the holidays, but it’s always in her house.
bobaki
Small dough balls, soaked in hot water and mixed with honey and poppy seeds. Seems hard to enjoy unless one grew up eating this dessert. Our family found these little balls completely irresistible. Grandma’s version is sweet with all the honey, but I’ve seen savory versions too. It seems that many of the desserts I grew up with also have savory versions.
I was lucky to grow up in a family with such a rich heritage. Like most kids, it’s easy to take for granted the cultural and food traditions that have become part of your life. Too many kids today don’t want to eat their family’s traditional food and instead go to the local fast food restaurant. My grandparents used to say, “Wisdom comes with age”. It took me years to realize they were right, and I’m trying to pass those traditions on to you now.
Thanks for taking the time to read my article. I hope it informs and helps you on your own culinary journey.
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